Wednesday, April 23, 2008

it was a good day in china...


As I sit here on my bed, with internet at my finger tips, I feel back to myself again. I now have more time to write, pour over ideas and wrestle with new ones.

Recently, I have been reading "Riding the Iron Rooster." About a man who travels around China by train. It has given me a real sort of perspective on the things I am seeing and the people I am encountering. Its so strange to be reading a book and already have experienced a few of the things the author mentions. Like a deja vu or something.

At times, when I am working with the students here, I feel like I experience this from time to time. Teaching english, I'm noticing, is sometimes not really about teaching at all. Its almost as if a cultural exchange is happening. I was thinking to myself as I left work today, what an incredible chance I have had over the last couple years of my life to ask questions and wrestle with ideas around language and culture. The students I have worked with have been my pipeline to these countries and a large portion of what I have learned about Japan and now China, is from them. This is also sobering, in that, the same is true that they learn about Canada through me. This is still a little scary for me but I'm realizing what a special oppourtunity it really is.

The best part of my job, I think, is helping people find a voice and giving people a chance to share their opinions and thoughts openly. This is what I look forward to when I come into work. It is sustaining. Even further, part of what I love most about my life right now is being able to examine the things I am seeing and experiencing, and attempting to come to turms with it. Obsessively attempting to document everything through photography, writing and talking with people have become my passion. The more I learn, the more I want to soak it in and try not to miss a drop.

But, as I learn more and more, I'm realizing how impossibe this actually is. And how I fail to give the right words. The more I learn about China, the less words I seem to have. My existing vocabulary doesn't lend itself to describing what I'm seeing and experiencing here. Maybe I am being taught that it is often the most impressionable experiences that teach us to listen to ourselves better and the environment around us.

On that note, I'm going to get back to my book and let the words soak in.

Friday, April 18, 2008

yangshuo...

Everytime I have started a blog recently, it seems like so much happens between each entry and its almost next to impossible to express the things that happens and my thoughts on those events.

I'm tired of being preoccupied with small things like not having regular internet access. One of my Chinese friends has been so wonderful in helping me with this an getting it sorted out. It finally should be up and running next week so I hope to update my entries more regularly. Since, its actually this very spot that I miss the most and sharing my thoughts with you. Thanks for your patience with checking this...

As I continue to live here in China, I am reminded that it is the little things that provide sustainance here. The chances to get away and let China give something back to you.

Perhaps one of the more memorable trips I have taken, has been in the last couple weeks. I visited the city of Yangshuo. Travelling on a bus for more than 12hrs, I was beginning to wonder if the visit would be actually worth it. And, I have to interject at this point to explain to you about the bathrooms in China, because this makes/breaks any bus trip. When the bus made its first stop on the overnight trip, the doors opened, and one of the single most rank smells was released. Imagine, if you will, an outhouse aroma, times the smell by 10, add the hint of a stinging sensation in your nostrils, no toilet paper and no doors. This, in combination with having the chance to say "hi" to your neighbor as you do your business, due to the walls only being half way up. And, just for kicks, this is all taking place in the middle of the night, with a light flickering above. You just close your eyes, take a deep breath and...on second thought...just close your eyes.

Already feeling like all of this was too much, and trying to distract myself with thoughts of my friends and family, the morning light appears and China's beautiful countryside comes to life. All of a sudden, I felt surrounded by beauty, mystery, and the wonder of this country. The closer we got, the more bumpy and unpredicitable the roads became. As I gazed out my window, I could see the characteristic mountains that makes this place so unique. As the mist hugged the top of these mountains, I felt a sense of peace that came over me and I couldn't wait to explore.

After getting off the bus and making our way on a small rickshaw to the centre of the town, the scenery becomes more beautiful by the minute. We were no longer in Guangzhou. We were in the Chinese countryside. Our hotel (all of $7.00/night) was lovely. Two Chinese woman greeted us at the door, as one sat down to finish making her afternoon tea. We climbed a set of stairs to our room. We were greeted with sounds of birds and cool open air on our faces. The cool air that comes with small, mountain towns.

Walking down West Street, the smell of cafes with fresh coffee filled the air. And I heard the sounds of locals attempting to sell a pair of shoes or earrings for unearthly prices. Colourful silk products, Chinese scroll paintings and caligraphy sets lined the street. I made my way down to the end and came to the Lei River. Small bamboo boats wait at the waters edge to take tourists on the water and experience the tall and vast mountains of the region.

During my 3 day stay here, one of perhaps the most memorable travel experiences I have had to date, is taking a small bamboo raft down the Lei River here. Taking a van to the launch spot, I saw some of the most local Chinese scenery. Small, brick homes with washing hanging out to dry. Children playing along the side of the road. Buskers and beggers. Donkeys in the field. And local farmers tends to their crops.

As we went further and further away from the busy tourist street, my friends and I found ourselves completely surrounded by the tall and uniquely shaped mountains, this time the beauty is completely overwhelming. With the river acting as a reflection, it seemed as if we were floating in a National Geographic photo shoot. "This is China," I thought to myself, "This is what I have been wanting to see." It reminded me of the scenery of a painting my parents have in their living room. The painting, I think, was given to them by my grandmother, who I think visited this same area a number of years ago. I thought I had seen these mountains somewhere before.

We are gently rowed down this river, by a man and his long bamboo stick. To gaze at the scenery, I didn't dare close my eyes. The girl leading our group told us that many people in the Yangshuo area have great imaginations, giving names and sometimes idenities to the uniquely shaped mountains here. With nothing but the sound of the water, and the small talk coming from other boats, it was a wonderful experience. Almost dream like.

Making our way back to the shopping street, it came alive with a different sort of energy at night. Cafes lit up, crowds of people slowly make their way around the shops, and music blares from bars, giving the street a personality of its own.

As the few days went on, I could physically feel how my lungs opened up to breath in the mountain air that so desperately lacks in Guangzhou. As I came back to the city after another long bus ride (this time, the bus had broken down in the middle of the night, leaving all of us passengers on the side of the road for 3 hrs...lets just say...it was an experience)...Yangshuo's scenery was running through my head. And as I went to work the next afternoon, the students were eager to know about the trip. And, so I told them. I told them that when I was in Japan, Kyoto had become a favorite city of mine to visit because of the special atmosphere and mystery that seems to exist there. I said to them that Yangshuo is now in the running for this category.

Any place that you travel to, is worth it in some way or another. No matter how bad the bathrooms, more matter how long the ride and no matter how tired you are...it can all melt away when you arrive and see what you have been wanting to see.